Watering

This plant is a bit more forgiving for over- and under-zealous plant parents and able to handle longer periods of moist or dry soil than its Ficus relatives.  It’s considered a moderate drinker, and can go for 2+ weeks without watering with the proper sub-irrigation system, but we suggest you probe the soil weekly for the first month and during hot summer months.  It will perform best if you’re able to thoroughly wet the soil and then let it dry (and we mean really dry) before watering it again.  See our watering-for-success guide for more information.

Light

With a little more leeway on the watering, let’s get the light right. While it can be maintained beautifully indoors in artificial light, it’s best to have it close to a window for some filtered sunlight –  east-, south-, and west-facing windows are best, so we’re classifying the Audrey as a “medium” light plant.  And, if you get it situated near a window, give your Ficus a quarter turn (aka “twist”) once a week – this will help let light penetrate from different angles and minimize the inevitable leaf drop from inside the plant’s canopy.

Nutrition

This Ficus likely will not need to be fed during the first 6 months after it has shipped.  During this time, it will use the residual nutrients from nursery production.  After 12 months, it can be fed quarterly with a complete fertilizer formulated for interior plants – check out our nutrition products from Dyna-Gro.  If your Ficus is positioned on a porch in the south, it may need supplemental nutrition sooner than 12 months.  Keep an eye on the newer leaves – not the emerging ones; if the new leaves are yellow and the veins prevalent, it is possible it needs some nutrients.  Please refer to our nutrient guide for details.

Cleaning

The Audrey leaf size is smaller than a Fiddle Leaf and bigger than an Alii and it usually has a more open canopy meaning you’ll have fewer leaves to clean than the ones on its cousins.  It does, however, have an interesting leaf texture and vein pattern so you might need to be a little more gentle with its leaves but simply wiping the leaves with a wet cloth usually does the trick for removing dust.  For spots where something else (besides dust) has landed on your plant, use a mild soapy solution to wet the cloth – then wipe, stroking the leaf away from the stem (and pulling on it lightly).

Pruning

The canopy of the Audrey is typically more open and we’ve witnessed its attempts to throw down some aerial roots and grow in some funky directions – we’re pretty sure that’s baked in to its DNA since it is, after all, a Banyan tree.  Regardless, you can tame yours with some infrequent, light pruning or you can let it do its thing and go “jungle” on you.  For the tame side, make pruning cuts to stems/branches that may be heading in the wrong direction and force new growth from the nodes.  Although this demonstration is with an (old) Fiddle Leaf Fig, it does get to the point on how best to prune any of the Ficus species from PLANTZ – Ficus pruning.

Bugs

Nary a worry here – Audrey’s not a big target for pests.  Scale, mealy bugs, and mites sometimes jump on, but they’re easily controlled by wiping the infested area with a soapy solution.  It can take several intermittent cleanings to rid the plant of the pests.  As always though, a regular cleaning/wiping regimen is best to keep any pests from taking up residence on your plant in the first place.

Trouble

Here are a few warning signs that your Ficus is getting ‘the funk’:

• Leaf drop – If the lower leaves start to droop and then drop, it’s either :
  1. not getting enough light
  2. it’s getting too much water or
  3. (you guessed it), it’s not getting enough water

  Or…if you moved it from one light extreme to another, it could shed leaves.  The most likely issues (#’s 1, 2, and 3) are easily correctable.

• Brown leaf margins – This is most likely from not enough light and under-watering.
• Brown spots and mushy leaf spots – This might be from too much water or exposure to cold temperatures.

The best part about any of the above is that they’re easily corrected.  The key, however, is recognizing the signs early and making the adjustment before too much damage occurs.And…Don’t forget the weekly twist to keep your Ficus evenly bathed in sunlight.

Warning

It has been reported that the sap from a Ficus plant is poisonous to dogs, cats, and horses.  So, if you have a dog, cat, or horse, don’t let them ingest the sap.  It’s also been reported that the sap can cause allergic reactions for people too.  If you get sap on your skin, wash it off and wipe the area with rubbing alcohol; if it gets in your eyes, flush your eyes with clean water for 15 minutes.  If none of this helps, call a doctor.

Fun Fact

As mentioned, the Audrey can develop aerial roots.  They can be tamed, but in its native habitat that’s how it forms ginormous canopies.  It can start out as an epiphyte, germinating from seed on the bark or branch crotch of another tree.  And that’s where it gets is most unusual name – the Strangler Fig.  After germinating, its roots attach to the host and then it puts out aerial roots eventually reach soil below.  Once it taps the soil, it can envelop and “strangle” the host plant out of existence using it for support while it develops even more roots.  Sometimes we have to ship the Audrey with a stake for support artificially simulating a “host”.

The post Braided Ficus Audrey appeared first on PLANTZ.

Watering

This plant is a moderate to heavy drinker, and can go for 2+ weeks without watering with the proper sub-irrigation system, but we suggest you check it with a soil probe weekly during the first 6-8 weeks after you get it and during hot summer months.  See our watering guide for more information.

Light

Next to watering, having adequate light is the most significant factor keeping your Ficus happy inside and out.  Your best placement is near a window where the plant can get some sun light – east-, south-, and west-facing windows are best.  It can also thrive in a room with strong ambient light.  If you want a good, sustainable indoor plant and don’t have good light, this is not the plant for you – unless you’re up for moving it for frequent trips to better lit areas.  And, if you get it situated near a window, give your Ficus a quarter turn (aka “twist”) once a week – this will help let light penetrate from different angles and minimize the inevitable leaf drop from inside the plant’s canopy.

Nutrition

The Ficus Daniella likely will not need to be fed during the first 6 months after it has shipped.  During this time, it will use the residual nutrients from nursery production.  After 12 months, it can be fed quarterly with a complete fertilizer formulated for interior plants.  If your Ficus is positioned on a porch in the south, it may need supplemental nutrition sooner than 12 months.  Keep an eye on the newer leaves – not the emerging ones; if the new leaves are yellow and the veins prevalent, it is possible it needs some nutrients.  Please refer to our nutrient guide for details.

Cleaning

Well, the Ficus microcarpa has a lot of small leaves but don’t be deterred.  Simply wiping the leaves with a wet cloth usually does the trick.  For spots where something else (besides dust) has landed on your plant, use a mild soapy solution to wet the cloth; then wipe.

Pruning

Most proud Ficus Moclome owners prefer to keep their plant with a nice, tight canopy in a “ball” form.  This is great if you have enough light to push out good new growth.  In this case, simply prune off branches/stems that are causing non-uniform growth to maintain the shape of the canopy making sure  pruning cuts are made just above any node (aka – right about a where a leaf attaches to a stem).  This will reduce the size of the plant and promote new growth from the point where the cut was made.

Bugs

Here’s another plus, this plant is not a big target for pests.  Scale, mealy bugs, and mites sometimes jump on, but they’re easily controlled by wiping the infested area with a soapy solution.  It can take several intermittent cleanings to rid the plant of the pests.

Trouble

Here are a few warning signs that your Ficus is getting ‘the funk’:

• Leaf drop – If the lower leaves start to droop and then drop, it’s either :
  1. not getting enough light
  2. it’s getting too much water or
  3. (you guessed it), it’s not getting enough water

  Or…if you moved it from one light extreme to another, it could shed leaves.  The most likely issues (#’s 1, 2, and 3) are easily correctable.

• Brown leaf margins – This is most likely from not enough light and under-watering.
• Brown spots and mushy leaf spots – This might be from too much water or exposure to cold temperatures.

The best part about any of the above is that they’re easily corrected.  The key, however, is recognizing the signs early and making the adjustment before too much damage occurs. And…Don’t forget the weekly twist to keep your Ficus evenly bathed in sunlight.

Warning

It has been reported that the sap from a Ficus plant is poisonous to dogs, cats, and horses.  So, if you have a dog, cat, or horse, don’t let them ingest the sap.  It’s also been reported that the sap can cause allergic reactions for people too.  If you get sap on your skin, wash it off and wipe the area with rubbing alcohol; if it gets in your eyes, flush your eyes with clean water for 15 minutes.  If none of this helps, call a doctor.

The post Ficus Microcarpa Braided appeared first on PLANTZ.

Watering

This plant is a moderate to heavy drinker, and can go for 2+ weeks without watering with the proper sub-irrigation system, but we suggest you check it weekly during the first 6-8 weeks after you get it and during hot summer months.  See our watering guide for more information.

Light

Next to watering, having adequate light is the most significant factor keeping your Lyrata happy inside.  Your best placement is near a window where the plant can get some sun light – east-, south- and west-facing windows are best.  It can also thrive in a room with strong ambient light.  If you want a good, sustainable indoor plant and don’t have good light, this is not the plant for you – unless you’re up for moving it for frequent trips to better lit areas.

Nutrition

The Fiddle Leaf Fig likely will not need to be fed during the first 6 months after it has shipped.  During this time, it will use the residual nutrients from nursery production.  After 12 months, it can be fed quarterly with a complete fertilizer formulated for interior plants.  If your Lyrata is positioned on a porch in the south, it may need supplemental nutrition sooner than 12 months.  Keep an eye on the newer leaves – not the emerging ones; if the new leaves are yellow and the veins prevalent, it is possible it needs some nutrients.  Please refer to our nutrient guide for details.

Cleaning

Here’s one of the greatest benefits of this plant – its large leaves are easy to clean and, overall, there are fewer leaves than many other interior plants.  Simply wiping the leaves with a wet cloth usually does the trick.  For spots where something else (besides dust) has landed on your plant, use a mild soapy solution to wet the cloth; then wipe.

Pruning

Many Fiddle Leaf Fig fans love to let this plant grow in all sorts of funky shapes.  If that’s not your style, and you want to maintain the plant’s height and girth, pruning cuts can be made just above any node (aka – right about a where a leaf attaches to a stem).  This will reduce the size of the plant and promote new growth from the point where the cut was made.  You can also trim or snap off leaves that have run their course.

Bugs

Here’s another plus, this plant is not a big target for pests.  Scale, mealy bugs, and mites sometimes jump on, but they’re easily controlled by wiping the infested area with a soapy solution.  It can take several intermittent cleanings to rid the plant of the pests.

Trouble

Here are a few warning signs that your Ficus Lyrata is getting the funk:

• Leaf drop – If the lower leaves start to droop and then drop, it’s either :
  1. not getting enough light
  2. it’s getting too much water or
  3. (you guessed it), it’s not getting enough water

  Or…if you moved it from one light extreme to another, it could shed leaves.  The most likely issues (#’s 1, 2, and 3) are easily correctable.

• Brown leaf margins – This is most likely from not enough light and under-watering.
• Brown spots and mushy leaf spots – This might be from too much water or exposure to cold temperatures.

The best part about any of the above is that they’re easily corrected.  The key, however, is recognizing the signs early and making the adjustment before too much damage occurs.

Warning

It has been reported that the sap from a Ficus plant is poisonous to dogs, cats, and horses.  So, if you have a dog, cat, or horse, don’t let them ingest the sap.  It’s also been reported that the sap can cause allergic reactions for people too.  If you get sap on your skin, wash it off and wipe the area with rubbing alcohol; if it gets in your eyes, flush your eyes with clean water for 15 minutes.  If none of this helps, call a doctor.

The post Ficus Lyrata Bush appeared first on PLANTZ.

Watering

This plant is a moderate to heavy drinker, and can go for 2+ weeks without watering with the proper sub-irrigation system, but we suggest you check it weekly during the first 6-8 weeks after you get it and during hot summer months.  See our watering guide for more information.

Light

Next to watering, having adequate light is the most significant factor keeping your Lyrata happy inside.  Your best placement is near a window where the plant can get some sun light – east-, south- and west-facing windows are best.  It can also thrive in a room with strong ambient light.  If you want a good, sustainable indoor plant and don’t have good light, this is not the plant for you – unless you’re up for moving it for frequent trips to better lit areas.

Nutrition

The Ficus Lyrata likely will not need to be fed during the first 6 months after it has shipped.  During this time, it will use the residual nutrients from nursery production.  After 12 months, it can be fed quarterly with a complete fertilizer formulated for interior plants.  If your Lyrata is positioned on a porch in the south, it may need supplemental nutrition sooner than 12 months.  Keep an eye on the newer leaves – not the emerging ones; if the new leaves are yellow and the veins prevalent, it is possible it needs some nutrients.  Please refer to our nutrient guide for details.

Cleaning

Here’s one of the greatest benefits of this plant – its large leaves are easy to clean and, overall, there are fewer leaves than many other interior plants.  Simply wiping the leaves with a wet cloth usually does the trick.  For spots where something else (besides dust) has landed on your plant, use a mild soapy solution to wet the cloth; then wipe.

Pruning

Many Fiddle Leaf Fig fans love to let this plant grow in all sorts of funky shapes.  If that’s not your style, and you want to maintain the plant’s height and girth, pruning cuts can be made just above any node (aka – right about a where a leaf attaches to a stem).  This will reduce the size of the plant and promote new growth from the point where the cut was made.  You can also trim or snap off leaves that have run their course.

Bugs

Here’s another plus, this plant is not a big target for pests.  Scale, mealy bugs, and mites sometimes jump on, but they’re easily controlled by wiping the infested area with a soapy solution.  It can take several intermittent cleanings to rid the plant of the pests.

Trouble

Here are a few warning signs that your Ficus Lyrata is getting the funk:

• Leaf drop – If the lower leaves start to droop and then drop, it’s either :
  1. not getting enough light
  2. it’s getting too much water or
  3. (you guessed it), it’s not getting enough water

  Or…if you moved it from one light extreme to another, it could shed leaves.  The most likely issues (#’s 1, 2, and 3) are easily correctable.

• Brown leaf margins – This is most likely from not enough light and under-watering.
• Brown spots and mushy leaf spots – This might be from too much water or exposure to cold temperatures.

The best part about any of the above is that they’re easily corrected.  The key, however, is recognizing the signs early and making the adjustment before too much damage occurs.

Warning

It has been reported that the sap from a Ficus plant is poisonous to dogs, cats, and horses.  So, if you have a dog, cat, or horse, don’t let them ingest the sap.  It’s also been reported that the sap can cause allergic reactions for people too.  If you get sap on your skin, wash it off and wipe the area with rubbing alcohol; if it gets in your eyes, flush your eyes with clean water for 15 minutes.  If none of this helps, call a doctor.

The post Ficus Lyrata appeared first on PLANTZ.

Watering

This plant is a moderate to heavy drinker, and can go for 2+ weeks without watering with the proper sub-irrigation system, but we suggest you check it with a soil probe weekly during the first 6-8 weeks after you get it and during hot summer months.  See our watering guide for more information.

Light

Next to watering, having adequate light is the most significant factor keeping your Ficus happy inside and out.  Your best placement is near a window where the plant can get some sun light – east-, south-, and west-facing windows are best.  It can also thrive in a room with strong ambient light.  If you want a good, sustainable indoor plant and don’t have good light, this is not the plant for you – unless you’re up for moving it for frequent trips to better lit areas.  And, if you get it situated near a window, give your Ficus a quarter turn (aka “twist”) once a week – this will help let light penetrate from different angles and minimize the inevitable leaf drop from inside the plant’s canopy.

Nutrition

This Ficus likely will not need to be fed during the first 6 months after it has shipped.  During this time, it will use the residual nutrients from nursery production.  After 12 months, it can be fed quarterly with a complete fertilizer formulated for interior plants.  If your Ficus is positioned on a porch in the south, it may need supplemental nutrition sooner than 12 months.  Keep an eye on the newer leaves – not the emerging ones; if the new leaves are yellow and the veins prevalent, it is possible it needs some nutrients.  Please refer to our nutrient guide for details.

Cleaning

Well, the Ficus microcarpa has a lot of small leaves but don’t be deterred.  Simply wiping the leaves with a wet cloth usually does the trick.  For spots where something else (besides dust) has landed on your plant, use a mild soapy solution to wet the cloth; then wipe.

Pruning

Most proud Ficus Moclome owners prefer to keep their plant with a nice, tight canopy in a “ball” form.  This is great if you have enough light to push out good new growth.  In this case, simply prune off branches/stems that are causing non-uniform growth to maintain the shape of the canopy making sure  pruning cuts are made just above any node (aka – right about a where a leaf attaches to a stem).  This will reduce the size of the plant and promote new growth from the point where the cut was made.

Bugs

Here’s another plus, this plant is not a big target for pests.  Scale, mealy bugs, and mites sometimes jump on, but they’re easily controlled by wiping the infested area with a soapy solution.  It can take several intermittent cleanings to rid the plant of the pests.

Trouble

Here are a few warning signs that your Ficus is getting ‘the funk’:

• Leaf drop – If the lower leaves start to droop and then drop, it’s either :
  1. not getting enough light
  2. it’s getting too much water or
  3. (you guessed it), it’s not getting enough water

  Or…if you moved it from one light extreme to another, it could shed leaves.  The most likely issues (#’s 1, 2, and 3) are easily correctable.

• Brown leaf margins – This is most likely from not enough light and under-watering.
• Brown spots and mushy leaf spots – This might be from too much water or exposure to cold temperatures.

The best part about any of the above is that they’re easily corrected.  The key, however, is recognizing the signs early and making the adjustment before too much damage occurs.And…Don’t forget the weekly twist to keep your Ficus evenly bathed in sunlight.

Warning

It has been reported that the sap from a Ficus plant is poisonous to dogs, cats, and horses.  So, if you have a dog, cat, or horse, don’t let them ingest the sap.  It’s also been reported that the sap can cause allergic reactions for people too.  If you get sap on your skin, wash it off and wipe the area with rubbing alcohol; if it gets in your eyes, flush your eyes with clean water for 15 minutes.  If none of this helps, call a doctor.

The post Ficus Microcarpa appeared first on PLANTZ.

Watering

This plant is a moderate drinker, and can go for 2+ weeks without watering with the proper sub-irrigation system, but we suggest you probe the soil weekly for the first month and during hot summer months.  See our watering-for-success guide for more information.

Light

Next to watering, having adequate light is the most significant factor keeping your Ficus happy inside and out.  Your best placement is a window where the plant can get some sun light – east-, south-, and west-facing windows are best.  It can also thrive in a room with strong ambient light.  If you want a good, sustainable indoor plant and don’t have good light, this is not the plant for you – unless you’re up for moving it for frequent trips to better lit areas.  And, if you get it situated near a window, give your Ficus a quarter turn (aka “twist”) once a week – this will help let light penetrate from different angles and minimize the inevitable leaf drop from inside the plant’s canopy.

Nutrition

This Ficus likely will not need to be fed during the first 6 months after it has shipped.  During this time, it will use the residual nutrients from nursery production.  After 12 months, it can be fed quarterly with a complete fertilizer formulated for interior plants – check out our nutrition products from Dyna-Gro.  If your Ficus is positioned on a porch in the south, it may need supplemental nutrition sooner than 12 months.  Keep an eye on the newer leaves – not the emerging ones; if the new leaves are yellow and the veins prevalent, it is possible it needs some nutrients.  Please refer to our nutrient guide for details.

Cleaning

Well, the Ficus Alii’s leaves are somewhat smaller than its cousin, the Fiddle Leaf Fig, but bigger than the Daniella making it relatively easy to clean.  Simply wiping the leaves with a wet cloth usually does the trick.  For spots where something else (besides dust) has landed on your plant, use a mild soapy solution to wet the cloth – the wipe, stroking the leaf away from the stem (and pulling on it lightly).

Pruning

The Banana Leaf Fig has a somewhat more open canopy and its habit is slightly weeping whereby the leaves will point to the ground.  If it weeps too much, stems can be pruned off to lighten the load and bring a branch and the whole canopy more upright – but if you like more weeping, leave it alone and let it grow.  Whenever you make pruning cuts, make sure  cuts are made just above any node (aka – right about a where a leaf attaches to a stem).  Regardless of your pruning purpose, this will reduce the size of the plant and promote new growth from the point where the cut was made.

Bugs

Here’s another plus, this plant is not a big target for pests.  Scale, mealy bugs, and mites sometimes jump on, but they’re easily controlled by wiping the infested area with a soapy solution.  It can take several intermittent cleanings to rid the plant of the pests.  As always though, a regular cleaning/wiping regimen is best to keep any pests from taking up residence on your plant in the first place.

Trouble

Here are a few warning signs that your Ficus is getting ‘the funk’:

• Leaf drop – If the lower leaves start to droop and then drop, it’s either :
  1. not getting enough light
  2. it’s getting too much water or
  3. (you guessed it), it’s not getting enough water

  Or…if you moved it from one light extreme to another, it could shed leaves.  The most likely issues (#’s 1, 2, and 3) are easily correctable.

• Brown leaf margins – This is most likely from not enough light and under-watering.
• Brown spots and mushy leaf spots – This might be from too much water or exposure to cold temperatures.

The best part about any of the above is that they’re easily corrected.  The key, however, is recognizing the signs early and making the adjustment before too much damage occurs.

And…

Don’t forget the weekly twist to keep your Ficus evenly bathed in sunlight.

Warning

It has been reported that the sap from a Ficus plant is poisonous to dogs, cats, and horses.  So, if you have a dog, cat, or horse, don’t let them ingest the sap.  It’s also been reported that the sap can cause allergic reactions for people too.  If you get sap on your skin, wash it off and wipe the area with rubbing alcohol; if it gets in your eyes, flush your eyes with clean water for 15 minutes.  If none of this helps, call a doctor.

The post Ficus Alii appeared first on PLANTZ.

Watering

While the Florida– and Hawaii-grown Rhapis may differ somewhat in their water-holding capacity, they share the same characteristic – they like an evenly moist root zone.  It should be watered thoroughly, around the entire soil surface, and watered again when the soil feels dry.  We’ll add further that, if left to dry-down too much, the lead (apical) buds on the stems can be lost pretty quickly; so, do NOT let it dry down completely – this could kill your very valuable palm.  Make sure you check it weekly during the first 8 weeks after you get it.  See our watering guide for more information.

Light

While this palm has good tolerance for lower light levels, it thrives in moderate and filtered light.  So, good filtered natural light or bright florescent light will keep this palm growing strong.

Nutrition

Like other plants right out of nursery production, you won’t need to feed this palm for at least 6 months after you get it.  That’s because there is residual nutrients in the soil from when the palm was being propagated.  After 6 months, it can be fed quarterly with a complete fertilizer formulated for interior plants.  Please refer to our plant nutrition guide for details.

Cleaning

A occasional wipe down with a damp cloth will keep your Rhapis looking good. However, a big palm with multiple stems and plentiful leaves can be a challenge to clean.  While we still prefer a cleaning regimen with water and a light soap solution, it would be okay to break out the feather duster on this plant.  Make sure your feather duster is clean though – it’s a primary way to get bugs from one plant to another.

Pruning

The older leaves on the Rhapis Palm may turn yellow and brown.  No sweat…just prune off the leaf as close to the stem as possible.

Bugs

The biggest bug problem for this palm is scale.  They’ll show up as little brown bumps on the underside of the leaves and can be wiped off.  Because scale insects form a waxy proactive coating over their bodies, you will need to apply a little more pressure to dislodge the little boogers from their happy little spot on the underside of the leaves.

Trouble

Give it a little light, keep the soil moist, and you should be in pretty good shape.

The post Rhapis Palm appeared first on PLANTZ.

Watering

With the high-light requirement, this palm is a heavy drinker.  Thoroughly wet the soil with each watering and let it dry down until the soil surface is dry before watering again.  Sub-irrigation can be very helpful in reducing the frequency of watering.  Please see our watering guide for more details.

Light

Don’t let anyone tell you differently, the Areca Palm needs lots of light.  You might be able to move it to low/medium light for special occasions, but if you want it to last you’ll need to have it parked in a very bright spot nearly full time.

Nutrition

Like other plants shipped fresh from Florida, you won’t need to feed this palm for at least 6 months after you get it.  That’s because there is residual nutrients in the soil from when the palm was being propagated.  After 6 months, it can be fed quarterly with a complete fertilizer formulated for interior plants.  But don’t let the yellow stems and petioles fool you in to thinking it needs more nutrients because the yellow color is a natural characteristic of the plant.

Cleaning

This plant, with its numerous stems and plentiful leaves and leaflets can be a challenge to clean.  While we still prefer a cleaning regimen with damp cloth soaked in water and a light soap solution, it would be okay to break out the feather duster on this plant.  Make sure your feather duster is clean though because it’s a great way to inadvertently spread spider mites and other critters.

Pruning

Older leaves will turn brown (especially if you let it dry out) and you can just prune them off at the base of the stem.  Eventually, too, the sheaths around the stem will brown and once they’re brown, you should be able to just peel them off the stem and expose the fresh, powder-coated stem beneath.

Bugs

There’s always a chance for a mealybug to set up camp on your Areca Palm.  Look for the little white cottony mealybugs at the base of the leaves, on the stems, and especially under the leaf sheaths between the sheath and the stem; mites will hide on the bottom side of the leaves and produce webs.  Be extra vigilant when scouting for mites, as they can do irreparable harm quickly often mistaken for dust on the underside of the leaves.  If you see either of these, break out the spray bottle with a light soap solution and spray them daily ’til they’re gone.

Trouble

Keep an eye out for the bugs mentioned above, and you’ll enjoy this palm for a summer fling or long-term relationship in a well-lit room.

The post Areca Palm appeared first on PLANTZ.