Watering

This plant is a moderate to heavy drinker, and can go for 2+ weeks without watering with the proper sub-irrigation system, but we suggest you check it weekly during the first 6-8 weeks after you get it and during hot summer months.  See our watering guide for more information.

Light

Next to watering, having adequate light is the most significant factor keeping your Lyrata happy inside.  Your best placement is near a window where the plant can get some sun light – east-, south- and west-facing windows are best.  It can also thrive in a room with strong ambient light.  If you want a good, sustainable indoor plant and don’t have good light, this is not the plant for you – unless you’re up for moving it for frequent trips to better lit areas.

Nutrition

The Fiddle Leaf Fig likely will not need to be fed during the first 6 months after it has shipped.  During this time, it will use the residual nutrients from nursery production.  After 12 months, it can be fed quarterly with a complete fertilizer formulated for interior plants.  If your Lyrata is positioned on a porch in the south, it may need supplemental nutrition sooner than 12 months.  Keep an eye on the newer leaves – not the emerging ones; if the new leaves are yellow and the veins prevalent, it is possible it needs some nutrients.  Please refer to our nutrient guide for details.

Cleaning

Here’s one of the greatest benefits of this plant – its large leaves are easy to clean and, overall, there are fewer leaves than many other interior plants.  Simply wiping the leaves with a wet cloth usually does the trick.  For spots where something else (besides dust) has landed on your plant, use a mild soapy solution to wet the cloth; then wipe.

Pruning

Many Fiddle Leaf Fig fans love to let this plant grow in all sorts of funky shapes.  If that’s not your style, and you want to maintain the plant’s height and girth, pruning cuts can be made just above any node (aka – right about a where a leaf attaches to a stem).  This will reduce the size of the plant and promote new growth from the point where the cut was made.  You can also trim or snap off leaves that have run their course.

Bugs

Here’s another plus, this plant is not a big target for pests.  Scale, mealy bugs, and mites sometimes jump on, but they’re easily controlled by wiping the infested area with a soapy solution.  It can take several intermittent cleanings to rid the plant of the pests.

Trouble

Here are a few warning signs that your Ficus Lyrata is getting the funk:

• Leaf drop – If the lower leaves start to droop and then drop, it’s either :
  1. not getting enough light
  2. it’s getting too much water or
  3. (you guessed it), it’s not getting enough water

  Or…if you moved it from one light extreme to another, it could shed leaves.  The most likely issues (#’s 1, 2, and 3) are easily correctable.

• Brown leaf margins – This is most likely from not enough light and under-watering.
• Brown spots and mushy leaf spots – This might be from too much water or exposure to cold temperatures.

The best part about any of the above is that they’re easily corrected.  The key, however, is recognizing the signs early and making the adjustment before too much damage occurs.

Warning

It has been reported that the sap from a Ficus plant is poisonous to dogs, cats, and horses.  So, if you have a dog, cat, or horse, don’t let them ingest the sap.  It’s also been reported that the sap can cause allergic reactions for people too.  If you get sap on your skin, wash it off and wipe the area with rubbing alcohol; if it gets in your eyes, flush your eyes with clean water for 15 minutes.  If none of this helps, call a doctor.

The post Ficus Lyrata Bush appeared first on PLANTZ.

Watering

Wet it and forget it – for up to a month!  Seriously, this plant really thrives in dry soil and needs an occasional good dose of water – so, make sure the soil dries out between waterings.   See our watering guide for more information.

Light

This native of Africa and southern Asia thrives in bright light, but it can be maintained in medium- and low-light conditions for a long, long, time.

Nutrition

The Snake Plant will not need to be fed during the first 6 months after it has shipped. During this time, it will use the residual nutrients from nursery production. After 6 months, it can be fed quarterly with a complete fertilizer formulated for interior plants. Please refer to our nutrient guide for details.

Cleaning

It’s a bit of an odd-ball plant with mainly leaves that are vertical to the floor and less likely to accumulate dust.  When it does get some dust, dirt, or anything else on it (that prevents the full availability of light from reaching the leaf surface), break out a towel and wet the towel with a light soapy solution and stroke both sides of the leaves with it.  Easy peasy.

Pruning

Again, the Snake Plants odd growth habit makes it a lot different from most other houseplants.  Sometimes an older leaf will become yellow or brown.  When this happens, prune it all the back to at or below the soil level.  It’s important to get it all the way down and remove the entire leaf.

Bugs

We’ve rarely seen an insect on a snake plant.  Maybe a chance for mealybugs and scale.   If you see one, get out the soapy towel and wipe it off.

Trouble

In good light, this plant will not give you any trouble – provided you water it occasionally.

The post Sansevieria Laurentii appeared first on PLANTZ.

Watering

This plant is a light drinker preferring near desertlike conditions between waterings and can go for 4+ weeks without watering provided it’s equipped with a sub-irrigation system.  We still suggest, however, you check it weekly during the first 6-8 weeks after you get it until you’re comfortable with the watering frequency.  Remember, thoroughly moisten the soil all the way around the base of the plant and then let it dry out before the next watering. See our watering guide for more information.

Light

Aglaonema Stripes thrive in low and medium light, but the cultivars with less green pigment in the leaves usually requires a little more light to maintain distinctive color patterns.  It can be sustained in regular room light conditions where it gets several hours of light from interior lighting sources; put it near a window, however, and you’re golden, or at least “green”.  Like with other shade-grown foliage plants, its leaves will burn quickly if exposed to direct mid-day sunlight.

Nutrition

Aglaonema Stripes likely will not need to be fed during the first 6 months after it has shipped. During this time, it will use the residual nutrients from nursery production. After 12 months, it can be fed quarterly with a complete fertilizer formulated for interior plants. If your Aglaonema is positioned on a porch in the south, it may need supplemental nutrition sooner than 12 months. Please refer to our nutrient guide for details.

Cleaning

Like its big-leaf Philodendron cousins, its wide leaves are easy to clean which is good because they can become dusty.  Simply wiping the leaves with a wet cloth with a little soap usually does the trick, stroking the leaf from the base (near the stem) to the tip.

Pruning

There’s really not much “pruning” to do on an Ag.  Occasionally, a lower leaf will give out and it can simply be pruned off where the leaf meets the stem.  This can be done with by-pass pruners or scissors.  Like other members of the Araceae plant family, Aglaonemas will attempt to bloom and a spadix will emerge from the stem.  Since we need to keep the plant focused on using its nutrients to keep its foliage looking good, an emerging spadix should be removed as soon as it’s visible.

Bugs

Hardly a worry here, the Aglaonema Stripes is not a big target for pests. Scale, mealy bugs, and mites sometimes jump on, but they’re easily controlled by wiping the infested area with a soapy solution. It can take several intermittent cleanings to rid the plant of the pests.

Note

Ags are sensitive to cold and should be kept in areas that do not go below 50 degrees F.  We are particularly careful about shipping this plant during late fall, winter, and early spring.

The post Aglaonema Stripes appeared first on PLANTZ.

Watering

This plant is a light drinker preferring near desertlike conditions between waterings and can go for 4+ weeks without watering provided it’s equipped with a sub-irrigation system.  We still suggest, however, you check it weekly during the first 6-8 weeks after you get it until you’re comfortable with the watering frequency.  Remember, thoroughly moisten the soil all the way around the base of the plant and then let it dry out before the next watering. See our watering guide for more information.

Light

Aglaonemas thrive in low and medium light, but the cultivars with less green pigment in the leaves usually requires a little more light to maintain distinctive color patterns.  It can be sustained in regular room light conditions where it gets several hours of light from interior lighting sources; put it near a window, however, and you’re golden, or at least “green”.  Like with other shade-grown foliage plants, its leaves will burn quickly if exposed to direct mid-day sunlight.

Nutrition

Aglaonemas likely will not need to be fed during the first 6 months after it has shipped. During this time, it will use the residual nutrients from nursery production. After 12 months, it can be fed quarterly with a complete fertilizer formulated for interior plants. If your Aglaonema is positioned on a porch in the south, it may need supplemental nutrition sooner than 12 months. Please refer to our nutrient guide for details.

Cleaning

Like its big-leaf Philodendron cousins, its wide leaves are easy to clean which is good because they can become dusty.  Simply wiping the leaves with a wet cloth with a little soap usually does the trick, stroking the leaf from the base (near the stem) to the tip.

Pruning

There’s really not much “pruning” to do on an Ag.  Occasionally, a lower leaf will give out and it can simply be pruned off where the leaf meets the stem.  This can be done with by-pass pruners or scissors.  Like other members of the Araceae plant family, Aglaonemas will attempt to bloom and a spadix will emerge from the stem.  Since we need to keep the plant focused on using its nutrients to keep its foliage looking good, an emerging spadix should be removed as soon as it’s visible.

Bugs

Hardly a worry here, the Aglaonema Mary Ann is not a big target for pests. Scale, mealy bugs, and mites sometimes jump on, but they’re easily controlled by wiping the infested area with a soapy solution. It can take several intermittent cleanings to rid the plant of the pests.

Temperature

Aglaonema Mary Anns are sensitive to cold and should be kept in areas that do not go below 50 degrees F.  We are particularly careful about shipping this plant during late fall, winter, and early spring.

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Watering

This plant is a light drinker preferring near desertlike conditions between waterings and can go for 4+ weeks without watering provided it’s equipped with a sub-irrigation system.  We still suggest, however, you check it weekly during the first 6-8 weeks after you get it until you’re comfortable with the watering frequency.  Remember, thoroughly moisten the soil all the way around the base of the plant and then let it dry out before the next watering. See our watering guide for more information.

Light

Aglaonemas thrive in low and medium light, but the cultivars with less green pigment in the leaves usually requires a little more light to maintain distinctive color patterns.  It can be sustained in regular room light conditions where it gets several hours of light from interior lighting sources; put it near a window, however, and you’re golden, or at least “green”.  Like with other shade-grown foliage plants, its leaves will burn quickly if exposed to direct mid-day sunlight.

Nutrition

Aglaonema Silver Bay likely will not need to be fed during the first 6 months after it has shipped. During this time, it will use the residual nutrients from nursery production. After 12 months, it can be fed quarterly with a complete fertilizer formulated for interior plants. If your Aglaonema is positioned on a porch in the south, it may need supplemental nutrition sooner than 12 months. Please refer to our nutrient guide for details.

Cleaning

Like its big-leaf Philodendron cousins, its wide leaves are easy to clean which is good because they can become dusty.  Simply wiping the leaves with a wet cloth with a little soap usually does the trick, stroking the leaf from the base (near the stem) to the tip.

Pruning

There’s really not much “pruning” to do on an Ag.  Occasionally, a lower leaf will give out and it can simply be pruned off where the leaf meets the stem.  This can be done with by-pass pruners or scissors.  Like other members of the Araceae plant family, Aglaonemas will attempt to bloom and a spadix will emerge from the stem.  Since we need to keep the plant focused on using its nutrients to keep its foliage looking good, an emerging spadix should be removed as soon as it’s visible.

Bugs

Hardly a worry here, the Aglaonema Silver Bay is not a big target for pests. Scale, mealy bugs, and mites sometimes jump on, but they’re easily controlled by wiping the infested area with a soapy solution. It can take several intermittent cleanings to rid the plant of the pests.

Temperature

Ags are sensitive to cold and should be kept in areas that do not go below 50 degrees F.  We are particularly careful about shipping this plant during late fall, winter, and early spring.

The post Aglaonema Silver Bay appeared first on PLANTZ.

Watering

This plant is a moderate to heavy drinker, and can go for 2+ weeks without watering with the proper sub-irrigation system, but we suggest you check it weekly during the first 6-8 weeks after you get it and during hot summer months.  See our watering guide for more information.

Light

Next to watering, having adequate light is the most significant factor keeping your Lyrata happy inside.  Your best placement is near a window where the plant can get some sun light – east-, south- and west-facing windows are best.  It can also thrive in a room with strong ambient light.  If you want a good, sustainable indoor plant and don’t have good light, this is not the plant for you – unless you’re up for moving it for frequent trips to better lit areas.

Nutrition

The Ficus Lyrata likely will not need to be fed during the first 6 months after it has shipped.  During this time, it will use the residual nutrients from nursery production.  After 12 months, it can be fed quarterly with a complete fertilizer formulated for interior plants.  If your Lyrata is positioned on a porch in the south, it may need supplemental nutrition sooner than 12 months.  Keep an eye on the newer leaves – not the emerging ones; if the new leaves are yellow and the veins prevalent, it is possible it needs some nutrients.  Please refer to our nutrient guide for details.

Cleaning

Here’s one of the greatest benefits of this plant – its large leaves are easy to clean and, overall, there are fewer leaves than many other interior plants.  Simply wiping the leaves with a wet cloth usually does the trick.  For spots where something else (besides dust) has landed on your plant, use a mild soapy solution to wet the cloth; then wipe.

Pruning

Many Fiddle Leaf Fig fans love to let this plant grow in all sorts of funky shapes.  If that’s not your style, and you want to maintain the plant’s height and girth, pruning cuts can be made just above any node (aka – right about a where a leaf attaches to a stem).  This will reduce the size of the plant and promote new growth from the point where the cut was made.  You can also trim or snap off leaves that have run their course.

Bugs

Here’s another plus, this plant is not a big target for pests.  Scale, mealy bugs, and mites sometimes jump on, but they’re easily controlled by wiping the infested area with a soapy solution.  It can take several intermittent cleanings to rid the plant of the pests.

Trouble

Here are a few warning signs that your Ficus Lyrata is getting the funk:

• Leaf drop – If the lower leaves start to droop and then drop, it’s either :
  1. not getting enough light
  2. it’s getting too much water or
  3. (you guessed it), it’s not getting enough water

  Or…if you moved it from one light extreme to another, it could shed leaves.  The most likely issues (#’s 1, 2, and 3) are easily correctable.

• Brown leaf margins – This is most likely from not enough light and under-watering.
• Brown spots and mushy leaf spots – This might be from too much water or exposure to cold temperatures.

The best part about any of the above is that they’re easily corrected.  The key, however, is recognizing the signs early and making the adjustment before too much damage occurs.

Warning

It has been reported that the sap from a Ficus plant is poisonous to dogs, cats, and horses.  So, if you have a dog, cat, or horse, don’t let them ingest the sap.  It’s also been reported that the sap can cause allergic reactions for people too.  If you get sap on your skin, wash it off and wipe the area with rubbing alcohol; if it gets in your eyes, flush your eyes with clean water for 15 minutes.  If none of this helps, call a doctor.

The post Ficus Lyrata appeared first on PLANTZ.

Watering

This plant is a moderate drinker and prefers to be watered thoroughly and left alone for the soil to dry out between waterings.  On sub-irrigation, it can go for 2+ weeks without watering, but we suggest you check it weekly during the first 6-8 weeks after you get it and during hot summer months. See our watering guide for more information.

Light

Like other philodendron, the Congo Rojo can be sustained in medium light but thrives in bright light, where the leaves will develop the deepest shades of burgundy and red.  Your best placement is near a window where the plant can get some sun light – east-, south- and west-facing windows are best.  Maintained as a floor plant, it can easily be moved to and from a good light source.  If kept in low to medium light for too long, it can lose its reddish coloring.

Nutrition

Congo Rojos likely will not need to be fed during the first 6 months after it has shipped. During this time, it will use the residual nutrients from nursery production. After 12 months, it can be fed quarterly with a complete fertilizer formulated for interior plants. If your Congo Rojo is positioned on a porch in the south, it may need supplemental nutrition sooner than 12 months. Please refer to our nutrient guide for details.

Cleaning

Like its cousin the Monstera, its large leaves are easy to clean because they’re easy to get to – but that also makes them susceptible to dust accumulation. Simply wiping the leaves with a wet cloth usually does the trick. For spots where something else (besides dust) has landed on your plant, use a mild soapy solution to wet the cloth; then wipe.

Pruning

This philodendron is not a climber like its Monstera cousin.  It’s “self heading”, which means its stem can support it with little or no support.  So pruning may be necessary if the stem gets too long or you simply need to remove some older leaves.  Because of its big leaves and strong stems, it can take up some significant space; so be sure to give it plenty of room or be prepared to prune it in place.

Bugs

We think the red coloring scares bugs away – just kidding, but the Congo Rojo is not a big target for pests. Scale, mealy bugs, and mites sometimes jump on, but they’re easily controlled by wiping the infested area with a soapy solution. It can take several intermittent cleanings to rid the plant of the pests.

Warning

Like other aroids, the leaves and stems of the Congo Rojo are toxic to animals (including humans), so do not ingest any part of the plant.  So, if you have a dog, cat, or horse, don’t let them ingest it.

The post Congo Rojo appeared first on PLANTZ.

Watering

One of the unique characteristics of the Ponytail Palm is the bulging base of the stem (or caudex) used by the plant for storing water giving this plant one of the longest watering interval requirements in the interior foliage biz.  For the record, it prefers its root zone on the dry side; so make sure the soil dries out between waterings and then wait until it’s really dry before you water it again.   See our watering guide for more information.

Light

This is where it differs the Dracaenas, which usually can tolerate some low and moderate light conditions – the Ponytail needs a good dose of light and to keep it growing and it’ll need to be situated by a south, east, or west window.  You can use it in an interior part of the house or office, but it won’t work as well – or you could rotate its position seasonally if you’re so inclined.  It’s a pretty tough plant able to adapt in different light, but, always side on the ‘more light is better’ side.

Nutrition

The Ponytail will not need to be fed during the first 6 months after it has shipped. During this time, it will use the residual nutrients from nursery production. After 6 months, it can be fed quarterly with a complete fertilizer formulated for interior plants. Please refer to our nutrient guide for details.

Cleaning

Unlike a pony’s tail, the leaves of this plant are not silky soft – quite the opposite.  They have tiny serrations on the leaf margins and stroking the leaves against the grain can cause some irrigation and even a cut – so be careful.  If your Ponytail gets dirty, you can pull the leaves gently with a towel soaked in light soapy water and it should do the trick.  However, don’t be afraid to pop this guy in the shower or outside for a good hose-down – it can handle it.

Pruning

Ponytails are cultivated with one main stem in a single pot and will sometimes have multiple “heads” – or terminal stems with leaves on them.  Ours are single stem and single head, so there’s no pruning necessary at the stem level.  Sometimes leaves can get brown tips or brown out completely.  In this case, we recommend removing the whole leaf at the stem.  You can, however, prune off brown tips with sharp scissors.

Bugs

Mealybug, scale and mites – these are the rare culprits hitching a ride on your Ponytail Palm.  Like most of our other offerings, a clean plant is a happy plant; so, keep it clean.  Look for the little white cottony mealybugs at the base of the leaves and on the stems; mites will hide on the bottom side of the leaves and produce webs.  If you see either of these, break out the spray bottle with a light soap solution and spray & wipe them daily ’til they’re gone.  Scale insects can be plucked off one by one.

Trouble

In good light, this plant will not give you any trouble – provided you don’t overwater it.

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Watering

Like other members of the Dracaena family, it prefers its root zone on the dry side; so make sure the soil dries out between waterings.   Seriously, under most interior settings, the JC Compacta can go 30 days between waterings.  See our watering guide for more information.

Light

It’s  a Dracaena, but the JC Compacta was cultivated with smaller leaves than most of its Janet Craig cousins leaving it with a somewhat diminished light-capturing capacity and, as a result, less chlorophyll for photosynthesis.  So, it can withstand long periods of low light but it needs moderate light to keep it “growing”.  Like other shade-grown foliage plants, do not expose this plant to direct sunlight or it will burn the leaves very quickly.

Nutrition

The JC Compacta will not need to be fed during the first 6 months after it has shipped. During this time, it will use the residual nutrients from nursery production. After 6 months, it can be fed quarterly with a complete fertilizer formulated for interior plants. Please refer to our nutrient guide for details.

Cleaning

Well, admittedly, this guy is little more time-consuming when it comes to cleaning – unless, of course, you’re willing to be creative with your cleaning regimen.  Part of its allure is the many, many deep-green leaves that give the JC Compacta its shape and character – but cleaning by wiping each leaf with rag and mild soapy solution requires patience.  It’s mainly dust that will accumulate on the leaves so a few creative measures include 1) using a blow drier at air temperature (no heat) and simply blowing the dust off, or 2) when it’s time for a watering and a cleaning, jump in the shower with this guy and rinse him off – voila, it’s watered for a month and clean!

Pruning

Don’t. Unless your plant is not meeting the dimensions of its intended space, you will not need to prune this plant. Older leaves, though, may yellow, and they can be snapped off with a tug against them. See our pruning guide for details.

Bugs

The biggest threat for the Janet Craig is Mealybugs and they can be pesky – so, keep it clean.  Look for the little white cottony bugs at the base of the leaves.  If you see them, break out the spray bottle with a light soap solution and spray them daily ’til they’re gone.

Trouble

Aside from the mealybug threat, minor leaf spots and old age will be your biggest worry with the JC Compacta.

• Leaf spots – Spots on the leaves may be a natural imperfection from production. If your new JC has a few spots, don’t sweat it – it’s Mother Nature’s way of letting you know it’s a real, live plant. Over time, leaf spots, especially on the margins, can develop from a build-up of fluoride in the leaves from water sources treated with fluoride – like almost everywhere that water comes from a treatment plant. If you can water with rain water from your garden, have at it; otherwise, be on the lookout for discolored margins over a very long period of time.  When older leaves become unsightly, just remove them by pulling them off the stem.
• Yellow and brown leaves – Old leaves may turn yellow and begin to brown. These should be removed.

The post Janet Craig Compacta appeared first on PLANTZ.

Watering

Wet it and forget it – for up to a month!  Seriously, this plant really thrives in dry soil and needs an occasional good dose of water – so, make sure the soil dries out between waterings.   See our watering guide for more information.

Light

This native of Africa and southern Asia thrives in bright light, but it can be maintained in medium- and low-light conditions for a long, long, time.

Nutrition

The Sansevieria will not need to be fed during the first 6 months after it has shipped. During this time, it will use the residual nutrients from nursery production. After 6 months, it can be fed quarterly with a complete fertilizer formulated for interior plants. Please refer to our nutrient guide for details.

Cleaning

It’s a bit of an odd-ball plant with mainly leaves that are vertical to the floor and less likely to accumulate dust.  When it does get some dust, dirt, or anything else on it (that prevents the full availability of light from reaching the leaf surface), break out a towel and wet the towel with a light soapy solution and stroke both sides of the leaves with it.  Easy peasy.

Pruning

Again, its odd growth habit makes it a lot different from most other houseplants.  Sometimes an older leaf will become yellow or brown.  When this happens, prune it all the back to at or below the soil level.  It’s important to get it all the way down and remove the entire leaf.

Bugs

We’ve rarely seen an insect on Sansevieria.  Maybe a chance for mealybugs and scale.   If you see one, get out the soapy towel and wipe it off.

Trouble

In good light, this plant will not give you any trouble – provided you water it occasionally.

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