Watering

This plant is a bit more forgiving for over- and under-zealous plant parents and able to handle longer periods of moist or dry soil than its Ficus relatives.  It’s considered a moderate drinker, and can go for 2+ weeks without watering with the proper sub-irrigation system, but we suggest you probe the soil weekly for the first month and during hot summer months.  It will perform best if you’re able to thoroughly wet the soil and then let it dry (and we mean really dry) before watering it again.  See our watering-for-success guide for more information.

Light

With a little more leeway on the watering, let’s get the light right. While it can be maintained beautifully indoors in artificial light, it’s best to have it close to a window for some filtered sunlight –  east-, south-, and west-facing windows are best, so we’re classifying the Audrey as a “medium” light plant.  And, if you get it situated near a window, give your Ficus a quarter turn (aka “twist”) once a week – this will help let light penetrate from different angles and minimize the inevitable leaf drop from inside the plant’s canopy.

Nutrition

This Ficus likely will not need to be fed during the first 6 months after it has shipped.  During this time, it will use the residual nutrients from nursery production.  After 12 months, it can be fed quarterly with a complete fertilizer formulated for interior plants – check out our nutrition products from Dyna-Gro.  If your Ficus is positioned on a porch in the south, it may need supplemental nutrition sooner than 12 months.  Keep an eye on the newer leaves – not the emerging ones; if the new leaves are yellow and the veins prevalent, it is possible it needs some nutrients.  Please refer to our nutrient guide for details.

Cleaning

The Audrey leaf size is smaller than a Fiddle Leaf and bigger than an Alii and it usually has a more open canopy meaning you’ll have fewer leaves to clean than the ones on its cousins.  It does, however, have an interesting leaf texture and vein pattern so you might need to be a little more gentle with its leaves but simply wiping the leaves with a wet cloth usually does the trick for removing dust.  For spots where something else (besides dust) has landed on your plant, use a mild soapy solution to wet the cloth – then wipe, stroking the leaf away from the stem (and pulling on it lightly).

Pruning

The canopy of the Audrey is typically more open and we’ve witnessed its attempts to throw down some aerial roots and grow in some funky directions – we’re pretty sure that’s baked in to its DNA since it is, after all, a Banyan tree.  Regardless, you can tame yours with some infrequent, light pruning or you can let it do its thing and go “jungle” on you.  For the tame side, make pruning cuts to stems/branches that may be heading in the wrong direction and force new growth from the nodes.  Although this demonstration is with an (old) Fiddle Leaf Fig, it does get to the point on how best to prune any of the Ficus species from PLANTZ – Ficus pruning.

Bugs

Nary a worry here – Audrey’s not a big target for pests.  Scale, mealy bugs, and mites sometimes jump on, but they’re easily controlled by wiping the infested area with a soapy solution.  It can take several intermittent cleanings to rid the plant of the pests.  As always though, a regular cleaning/wiping regimen is best to keep any pests from taking up residence on your plant in the first place.

Trouble

Here are a few warning signs that your Ficus is getting ‘the funk’:

• Leaf drop – If the lower leaves start to droop and then drop, it’s either :
  1. not getting enough light
  2. it’s getting too much water or
  3. (you guessed it), it’s not getting enough water

  Or…if you moved it from one light extreme to another, it could shed leaves.  The most likely issues (#’s 1, 2, and 3) are easily correctable.

• Brown leaf margins – This is most likely from not enough light and under-watering.
• Brown spots and mushy leaf spots – This might be from too much water or exposure to cold temperatures.

The best part about any of the above is that they’re easily corrected.  The key, however, is recognizing the signs early and making the adjustment before too much damage occurs.And…Don’t forget the weekly twist to keep your Ficus evenly bathed in sunlight.

Warning

It has been reported that the sap from a Ficus plant is poisonous to dogs, cats, and horses.  So, if you have a dog, cat, or horse, don’t let them ingest the sap.  It’s also been reported that the sap can cause allergic reactions for people too.  If you get sap on your skin, wash it off and wipe the area with rubbing alcohol; if it gets in your eyes, flush your eyes with clean water for 15 minutes.  If none of this helps, call a doctor.

Fun Fact

As mentioned, the Audrey can develop aerial roots.  They can be tamed, but in its native habitat that’s how it forms ginormous canopies.  It can start out as an epiphyte, germinating from seed on the bark or branch crotch of another tree.  And that’s where it gets is most unusual name – the Strangler Fig.  After germinating, its roots attach to the host and then it puts out aerial roots eventually reach soil below.  Once it taps the soil, it can envelop and “strangle” the host plant out of existence using it for support while it develops even more roots.  Sometimes we have to ship the Audrey with a stake for support artificially simulating a “host”.

The post Braided Ficus Audrey appeared first on PLANTZ.

Watering

Our Kentia Palms come from top growers in both Florida and Hawaii and the soils differ considerably in their water-holding capacity.  Florida soils hold more water, while lava-rock Hawaiian soils drain more readily.  Regardless, the plants share the same characteristic – they like an evenly moist rootzone.  The Kentia should be watered thoroughly, around the entire soil surface, and not watered again until the soil feels dry – you’ll want a soil probe to help you determine relative soil moisture.    The Hawaiian soils are a different, and sometimes hard to probe, but it’s the best soil for plant owners that tend to over-water because there’s so much air space between the small particles of lava rock (cinder).  Please check out our watering guide for more information.

Light

While this palm has strong tolerance for lower light levels, much better than most palms, it will thrive in moderate and high light.  So, good filtered natural light or bright fluorescent light will keep this palm growing strong.

Nutrition

Like other plants right out of nursery production, you won’t need to feed this palm for at least 6 months after you get it.  That’s because there is residual nutrients in the soil from when the palm was being propagated.  After 6 months, it can be fed quarterly with a complete fertilizer formulated for interior plants.  Please refer to our plant nutrition guide for details.

Cleaning

An occasional wipe down with a damp cloth will keep your Kentia looking good.  That’s it.

Pruning

The older leaves on the Kentia Palm may turn yellow and brown.  So sweat…just prune off the leaf as close to the stem as possible.

Bugs

The biggest bug problem for this palm is scale.  They’ll show up as little brown bumps on the underside of the leaves and can be wiped off.  Because scale insects form a waxy proactive coating over their bodies, you will need to apply a little more pressure to dislodge the little boogers from their happy little spot on the underside of the leaves.

Trouble

Give it a little light and occasional water, and you should be in pretty good shape.

The post Hawaiian Kentia Palm appeared first on PLANTZ.

Watering

This plant is a moderate to heavy drinker, and can go for 2+ weeks without watering with the proper sub-irrigation system, but we suggest you check it with a soil probe weekly during the first 6-8 weeks after you get it and during hot summer months.  See our watering guide for more information.

Light

Next to watering, having adequate light is the most significant factor keeping your Ficus happy inside and out.  Your best placement is near a window where the plant can get some sun light – east-, south-, and west-facing windows are best.  It can also thrive in a room with strong ambient light.  If you want a good, sustainable indoor plant and don’t have good light, this is not the plant for you – unless you’re up for moving it for frequent trips to better lit areas.  And, if you get it situated near a window, give your Ficus a quarter turn (aka “twist”) once a week – this will help let light penetrate from different angles and minimize the inevitable leaf drop from inside the plant’s canopy.

Nutrition

The Ficus Daniella likely will not need to be fed during the first 6 months after it has shipped.  During this time, it will use the residual nutrients from nursery production.  After 12 months, it can be fed quarterly with a complete fertilizer formulated for interior plants.  If your Ficus is positioned on a porch in the south, it may need supplemental nutrition sooner than 12 months.  Keep an eye on the newer leaves – not the emerging ones; if the new leaves are yellow and the veins prevalent, it is possible it needs some nutrients.  Please refer to our nutrient guide for details.

Cleaning

Well, the Ficus microcarpa has a lot of small leaves but don’t be deterred.  Simply wiping the leaves with a wet cloth usually does the trick.  For spots where something else (besides dust) has landed on your plant, use a mild soapy solution to wet the cloth; then wipe.

Pruning

Most proud Ficus Moclome owners prefer to keep their plant with a nice, tight canopy in a “ball” form.  This is great if you have enough light to push out good new growth.  In this case, simply prune off branches/stems that are causing non-uniform growth to maintain the shape of the canopy making sure  pruning cuts are made just above any node (aka – right about a where a leaf attaches to a stem).  This will reduce the size of the plant and promote new growth from the point where the cut was made.

Bugs

Here’s another plus, this plant is not a big target for pests.  Scale, mealy bugs, and mites sometimes jump on, but they’re easily controlled by wiping the infested area with a soapy solution.  It can take several intermittent cleanings to rid the plant of the pests.

Trouble

Here are a few warning signs that your Ficus is getting ‘the funk’:

• Leaf drop – If the lower leaves start to droop and then drop, it’s either :
  1. not getting enough light
  2. it’s getting too much water or
  3. (you guessed it), it’s not getting enough water

  Or…if you moved it from one light extreme to another, it could shed leaves.  The most likely issues (#’s 1, 2, and 3) are easily correctable.

• Brown leaf margins – This is most likely from not enough light and under-watering.
• Brown spots and mushy leaf spots – This might be from too much water or exposure to cold temperatures.

The best part about any of the above is that they’re easily corrected.  The key, however, is recognizing the signs early and making the adjustment before too much damage occurs. And…Don’t forget the weekly twist to keep your Ficus evenly bathed in sunlight.

Warning

It has been reported that the sap from a Ficus plant is poisonous to dogs, cats, and horses.  So, if you have a dog, cat, or horse, don’t let them ingest the sap.  It’s also been reported that the sap can cause allergic reactions for people too.  If you get sap on your skin, wash it off and wipe the area with rubbing alcohol; if it gets in your eyes, flush your eyes with clean water for 15 minutes.  If none of this helps, call a doctor.

The post Ficus Microcarpa Braided appeared first on PLANTZ.

Watering

This plant is a moderate to heavy drinker, and can go for 2+ weeks without watering with the proper sub-irrigation system, but we suggest you check it weekly during the first 6-8 weeks after you get it and during hot summer months.  See our watering guide for more information.

Light

Next to watering, having adequate light is the most significant factor keeping your Lyrata happy inside.  Your best placement is near a window where the plant can get some sun light – east-, south- and west-facing windows are best.  It can also thrive in a room with strong ambient light.  If you want a good, sustainable indoor plant and don’t have good light, this is not the plant for you – unless you’re up for moving it for frequent trips to better lit areas.

Nutrition

The Fiddle Leaf Fig likely will not need to be fed during the first 6 months after it has shipped.  During this time, it will use the residual nutrients from nursery production.  After 12 months, it can be fed quarterly with a complete fertilizer formulated for interior plants.  If your Lyrata is positioned on a porch in the south, it may need supplemental nutrition sooner than 12 months.  Keep an eye on the newer leaves – not the emerging ones; if the new leaves are yellow and the veins prevalent, it is possible it needs some nutrients.  Please refer to our nutrient guide for details.

Cleaning

Here’s one of the greatest benefits of this plant – its large leaves are easy to clean and, overall, there are fewer leaves than many other interior plants.  Simply wiping the leaves with a wet cloth usually does the trick.  For spots where something else (besides dust) has landed on your plant, use a mild soapy solution to wet the cloth; then wipe.

Pruning

Many Fiddle Leaf Fig fans love to let this plant grow in all sorts of funky shapes.  If that’s not your style, and you want to maintain the plant’s height and girth, pruning cuts can be made just above any node (aka – right about a where a leaf attaches to a stem).  This will reduce the size of the plant and promote new growth from the point where the cut was made.  You can also trim or snap off leaves that have run their course.

Bugs

Here’s another plus, this plant is not a big target for pests.  Scale, mealy bugs, and mites sometimes jump on, but they’re easily controlled by wiping the infested area with a soapy solution.  It can take several intermittent cleanings to rid the plant of the pests.

Trouble

Here are a few warning signs that your Ficus Lyrata is getting the funk:

• Leaf drop – If the lower leaves start to droop and then drop, it’s either :
  1. not getting enough light
  2. it’s getting too much water or
  3. (you guessed it), it’s not getting enough water

  Or…if you moved it from one light extreme to another, it could shed leaves.  The most likely issues (#’s 1, 2, and 3) are easily correctable.

• Brown leaf margins – This is most likely from not enough light and under-watering.
• Brown spots and mushy leaf spots – This might be from too much water or exposure to cold temperatures.

The best part about any of the above is that they’re easily corrected.  The key, however, is recognizing the signs early and making the adjustment before too much damage occurs.

Warning

It has been reported that the sap from a Ficus plant is poisonous to dogs, cats, and horses.  So, if you have a dog, cat, or horse, don’t let them ingest the sap.  It’s also been reported that the sap can cause allergic reactions for people too.  If you get sap on your skin, wash it off and wipe the area with rubbing alcohol; if it gets in your eyes, flush your eyes with clean water for 15 minutes.  If none of this helps, call a doctor.

The post Ficus Lyrata Bush appeared first on PLANTZ.

Watering

Like other members of the Dracaena family, it prefers its root zone on the dry side; so make sure the soil dries out between waterings.   See our watering guide for more information.

Light

Although it’s a Dracaena, the Marginata still needs at least moderate light. It’s great near a window with filtered light but not in a dark spot. Like others, do not expose this plant to direct sunlight or it will burn the leaves very quickly.

Nutrition

The Marginata will not need to be fed during the first 6 months after it has shipped. During this time, it will use the residual nutrients from nursery production. After 6 months, it can be fed quarterly with a complete fertilizer formulated for interior plants. Please refer to our nutrient guide for details.

Cleaning

This plant, with its numerous trunks and plentiful leaves is a bit more challenging to clean, but it doesn’t show dust as prevalently as the green Dracaenas.  While we prefer a cleaning regimen with water and a light soap solution, it would be okay to break out the feather duster on this plant.  Make sure your feather duster is clean though – it’s a primary way to get bugs from one plant to another.

Pruning

In good light, the Marge can grow tall and need to be pruned to maintain the desired shape.  Cut stems below where you’d like new growth to fill in, since the cut will prompt growth in that area.  The lower leaves can turn yellow and are easily pulled off.  See our pruning guide for details.

Bugs

The Marginata can attract mealybugs and mites.   Mealybugs will be the main pest, and sometimes scale will affect the plant. So, keep it clean.  Look for the little white cottony mealybugs at the base of the leaves and on the stems; mites will hide on the bottom side of the leaves and produce webs.  If you see either of these, break out the spray bottle with a light soap solution and spray them daily ’til they’re gone.

Trouble

In good light, this plant will not give you any trouble – provided you water it occasionally.

The post Dracaena Marginata Open Braid appeared first on PLANTZ.

Watering

Wet it and forget it – for up to a month!  Seriously, this plant really thrives in dry soil and needs an occasional good dose of water – so, make sure the soil dries out between waterings.   See our watering guide for more information.

Light

This native of Africa and southern Asia thrives in bright light, but it can be maintained in medium- and low-light conditions for a long, long, time.

Nutrition

The Snake Plant will not need to be fed during the first 6 months after it has shipped. During this time, it will use the residual nutrients from nursery production. After 6 months, it can be fed quarterly with a complete fertilizer formulated for interior plants. Please refer to our nutrient guide for details.

Cleaning

It’s a bit of an odd-ball plant with mainly leaves that are vertical to the floor and less likely to accumulate dust.  When it does get some dust, dirt, or anything else on it (that prevents the full availability of light from reaching the leaf surface), break out a towel and wet the towel with a light soapy solution and stroke both sides of the leaves with it.  Easy peasy.

Pruning

Again, the Snake Plants odd growth habit makes it a lot different from most other houseplants.  Sometimes an older leaf will become yellow or brown.  When this happens, prune it all the back to at or below the soil level.  It’s important to get it all the way down and remove the entire leaf.

Bugs

We’ve rarely seen an insect on a snake plant.  Maybe a chance for mealybugs and scale.   If you see one, get out the soapy towel and wipe it off.

Trouble

In good light, this plant will not give you any trouble – provided you water it occasionally.

The post Sansevieria Laurentii appeared first on PLANTZ.

Watering

This plant is a light drinker preferring near desertlike conditions between waterings and can go for 4+ weeks without watering provided it’s equipped with a sub-irrigation system.  We still suggest, however, you check it weekly during the first 6-8 weeks after you get it until you’re comfortable with the watering frequency.  Remember, thoroughly moisten the soil all the way around the base of the plant and then let it dry out before the next watering. See our watering guide for more information.

Light

Aglaonema Stripes thrive in low and medium light, but the cultivars with less green pigment in the leaves usually requires a little more light to maintain distinctive color patterns.  It can be sustained in regular room light conditions where it gets several hours of light from interior lighting sources; put it near a window, however, and you’re golden, or at least “green”.  Like with other shade-grown foliage plants, its leaves will burn quickly if exposed to direct mid-day sunlight.

Nutrition

Aglaonema Stripes likely will not need to be fed during the first 6 months after it has shipped. During this time, it will use the residual nutrients from nursery production. After 12 months, it can be fed quarterly with a complete fertilizer formulated for interior plants. If your Aglaonema is positioned on a porch in the south, it may need supplemental nutrition sooner than 12 months. Please refer to our nutrient guide for details.

Cleaning

Like its big-leaf Philodendron cousins, its wide leaves are easy to clean which is good because they can become dusty.  Simply wiping the leaves with a wet cloth with a little soap usually does the trick, stroking the leaf from the base (near the stem) to the tip.

Pruning

There’s really not much “pruning” to do on an Ag.  Occasionally, a lower leaf will give out and it can simply be pruned off where the leaf meets the stem.  This can be done with by-pass pruners or scissors.  Like other members of the Araceae plant family, Aglaonemas will attempt to bloom and a spadix will emerge from the stem.  Since we need to keep the plant focused on using its nutrients to keep its foliage looking good, an emerging spadix should be removed as soon as it’s visible.

Bugs

Hardly a worry here, the Aglaonema Stripes is not a big target for pests. Scale, mealy bugs, and mites sometimes jump on, but they’re easily controlled by wiping the infested area with a soapy solution. It can take several intermittent cleanings to rid the plant of the pests.

Note

Ags are sensitive to cold and should be kept in areas that do not go below 50 degrees F.  We are particularly careful about shipping this plant during late fall, winter, and early spring.

The post Aglaonema Stripes appeared first on PLANTZ.

Watering

This plant is a light drinker preferring near desertlike conditions between waterings and can go for 4+ weeks without watering provided it’s equipped with a sub-irrigation system.  We still suggest, however, you check it weekly during the first 6-8 weeks after you get it until you’re comfortable with the watering frequency.  Remember, thoroughly moisten the soil all the way around the base of the plant and then let it dry out before the next watering. See our watering guide for more information.

Light

Aglaonemas thrive in low and medium light, but the cultivars with less green pigment in the leaves usually requires a little more light to maintain distinctive color patterns.  It can be sustained in regular room light conditions where it gets several hours of light from interior lighting sources; put it near a window, however, and you’re golden, or at least “green”.  Like with other shade-grown foliage plants, its leaves will burn quickly if exposed to direct mid-day sunlight.

Nutrition

Aglaonemas likely will not need to be fed during the first 6 months after it has shipped. During this time, it will use the residual nutrients from nursery production. After 12 months, it can be fed quarterly with a complete fertilizer formulated for interior plants. If your Aglaonema is positioned on a porch in the south, it may need supplemental nutrition sooner than 12 months. Please refer to our nutrient guide for details.

Cleaning

Like its big-leaf Philodendron cousins, its wide leaves are easy to clean which is good because they can become dusty.  Simply wiping the leaves with a wet cloth with a little soap usually does the trick, stroking the leaf from the base (near the stem) to the tip.

Pruning

There’s really not much “pruning” to do on an Ag.  Occasionally, a lower leaf will give out and it can simply be pruned off where the leaf meets the stem.  This can be done with by-pass pruners or scissors.  Like other members of the Araceae plant family, Aglaonemas will attempt to bloom and a spadix will emerge from the stem.  Since we need to keep the plant focused on using its nutrients to keep its foliage looking good, an emerging spadix should be removed as soon as it’s visible.

Bugs

Hardly a worry here, the Aglaonema Mary Ann is not a big target for pests. Scale, mealy bugs, and mites sometimes jump on, but they’re easily controlled by wiping the infested area with a soapy solution. It can take several intermittent cleanings to rid the plant of the pests.

Temperature

Aglaonema Mary Anns are sensitive to cold and should be kept in areas that do not go below 50 degrees F.  We are particularly careful about shipping this plant during late fall, winter, and early spring.

The post Aglaonema Mary Ann appeared first on PLANTZ.

Watering

This plant is a light drinker preferring near desertlike conditions between waterings and can go for 4+ weeks without watering provided it’s equipped with a sub-irrigation system.  We still suggest, however, you check it weekly during the first 6-8 weeks after you get it until you’re comfortable with the watering frequency.  Remember, thoroughly moisten the soil all the way around the base of the plant and then let it dry out before the next watering. See our watering guide for more information.

Light

Aglaonemas thrive in low and medium light, but the cultivars with less green pigment in the leaves usually requires a little more light to maintain distinctive color patterns.  It can be sustained in regular room light conditions where it gets several hours of light from interior lighting sources; put it near a window, however, and you’re golden, or at least “green”.  Like with other shade-grown foliage plants, its leaves will burn quickly if exposed to direct mid-day sunlight.

Nutrition

Aglaonema Silver Bay likely will not need to be fed during the first 6 months after it has shipped. During this time, it will use the residual nutrients from nursery production. After 12 months, it can be fed quarterly with a complete fertilizer formulated for interior plants. If your Aglaonema is positioned on a porch in the south, it may need supplemental nutrition sooner than 12 months. Please refer to our nutrient guide for details.

Cleaning

Like its big-leaf Philodendron cousins, its wide leaves are easy to clean which is good because they can become dusty.  Simply wiping the leaves with a wet cloth with a little soap usually does the trick, stroking the leaf from the base (near the stem) to the tip.

Pruning

There’s really not much “pruning” to do on an Ag.  Occasionally, a lower leaf will give out and it can simply be pruned off where the leaf meets the stem.  This can be done with by-pass pruners or scissors.  Like other members of the Araceae plant family, Aglaonemas will attempt to bloom and a spadix will emerge from the stem.  Since we need to keep the plant focused on using its nutrients to keep its foliage looking good, an emerging spadix should be removed as soon as it’s visible.

Bugs

Hardly a worry here, the Aglaonema Silver Bay is not a big target for pests. Scale, mealy bugs, and mites sometimes jump on, but they’re easily controlled by wiping the infested area with a soapy solution. It can take several intermittent cleanings to rid the plant of the pests.

Temperature

Ags are sensitive to cold and should be kept in areas that do not go below 50 degrees F.  We are particularly careful about shipping this plant during late fall, winter, and early spring.

The post Aglaonema Silver Bay appeared first on PLANTZ.

Watering

This plant is a bit more forgiving for over- and under-zealous plant parents and able to handle longer periods of moist or dry soil than its Ficus relatives.  It’s considered a moderate drinker, and can go for 2+ weeks without watering with the proper sub-irrigation system, but we suggest you probe the soil weekly for the first month and during hot summer months.  It will perform best if you’re able to thoroughly wet the soil and then let it dry (and we mean really dry) before watering it again.  See our watering-for-success guide for more information.

Light

With a little more leeway on the watering, let’s get the light right. While it can be maintained beautifully indoors in artificial light, it’s best to have it close to a window for some filtered sunlight –  east-, south-, and west-facing windows are best, so we’re classifying the Audrey as a “medium” light plant.  And, if you get it situated near a window, give your Ficus a quarter turn (aka “twist”) once a week – this will help let light penetrate from different angles and minimize the inevitable leaf drop from inside the plant’s canopy.

Nutrition

The Ficus Audrey likely will not need to be fed during the first 6 months after it has shipped.  During this time, it will use the residual nutrients from nursery production.  After 12 months, it can be fed quarterly with a complete fertilizer formulated for interior plants – check out our nutrition products from Dyna-Gro.  If your Ficus is positioned on a porch in the south, it may need supplemental nutrition sooner than 12 months.  Keep an eye on the newer leaves – not the emerging ones; if the new leaves are yellow and the veins prevalent, it is possible it needs some nutrients.  Please refer to our nutrient guide for details.

Cleaning

The Ficus Audrey leaf size is smaller than a Fiddle Leaf and bigger than an Alii and it usually has a more open canopy meaning you’ll have fewer leaves to clean than the ones on its cousins.  It does, however, have an interesting leaf texture and vein pattern so you might need to be a little more gentle with its leaves but simply wiping the leaves with a wet cloth usually does the trick for removing dust.  For spots where something else (besides dust) has landed on your plant, use a mild soapy solution to wet the cloth – then wipe, stroking the leaf away from the stem (and pulling on it lightly).

Pruning

The canopy of the Ficus Audrey is typically more open and we’ve witnessed its attempts to throw down some aerial roots and grow in some funky directions – we’re pretty sure that’s baked in to its DNA since it is, after all, a Banyan tree.  Regardless, you can tame yours with some infrequent, light pruning or you can let it do its thing and go “jungle” on you.  For the tame side, make pruning cuts to stems/branches that may be heading in the wrong direction and force new growth from the nodes.  Although this demonstration is with an (old) Fiddle Leaf Fig, it does get to the point on how best to prune any of the Ficus species from PLANTZ – Ficus pruning.

Bugs

Nary a worry here – Audrey’s not a big target for pests.  Scale, mealy bugs, and mites sometimes jump on, but they’re easily controlled by wiping the infested area with a soapy solution.  It can take several intermittent cleanings to rid the plant of the pests.  As always though, a regular cleaning/wiping regimen is best to keep any pests from taking up residence on your plant in the first place.

Trouble

Here are a few warning signs that your Ficus is getting ‘the funk’:

• Leaf drop – If the lower leaves start to droop and then drop, it’s either :
  1. not getting enough light
  2. it’s getting too much water or
  3. (you guessed it), it’s not getting enough water

  Or…if you moved it from one light extreme to another, it could shed leaves.  The most likely issues (#’s 1, 2, and 3) are easily correctable.

• Brown leaf margins – This is most likely from not enough light and under-watering.
• Brown spots and mushy leaf spots – This might be from too much water or exposure to cold temperatures.

The best part about any of the above is that they’re easily corrected.  The key, however, is recognizing the signs early and making the adjustment before too much damage occurs.And…Don’t forget the weekly twist to keep your Ficus evenly bathed in sunlight.

Warning

It has been reported that the sap from a Ficus plant is poisonous to dogs, cats, and horses.  So, if you have a dog, cat, or horse, don’t let them ingest the sap.  It’s also been reported that the sap can cause allergic reactions for people too.  If you get sap on your skin, wash it off and wipe the area with rubbing alcohol; if it gets in your eyes, flush your eyes with clean water for 15 minutes.  If none of this helps, call a doctor.

Fun Fact

As mentioned, the Ficus Audrey can develop aerial roots.  They can be tamed, but in its native habitat that’s how it forms ginormous canopies.  It can start out as an epiphyte, germinating from seed on the bark or branch crotch of another tree.  And that’s where it gets is most unusual name – the Strangler Fig.  After germinating, its roots attach to the host and then it puts out aerial roots eventually reach soil below.  Once it taps the soil, it can envelop and “strangle” the host plant out of existence using it for support while it develops even more roots.  Sometimes we have to ship the Audrey with a stake for support artificially simulating a “host”.

The post Ficus Audrey appeared first on PLANTZ.